There once was a country mouse, and a city mouse. And the country mouse visited the city mouse, and they walked in the grand lights of the city amongst the hustle and bustle. And, as is the usual with mice, the country mouse grew hungry. But the city mouse had only soulless, frozen-and-nuked family fun chains, and pretentious eateries where waiters kept their judgemental eyes fixed upon those who did not know the term, “aioli.” The country mouse soon died of starvation.
But soon, we may see a day when no more country mice die needlessly, at least not if North Park’s restaurants Urban Solace and The Linkery have anything to say about it. With Urban Solace’s innovative takes on comfort food, and The Linkery’s steadfast dedication to farm-to-table eating, North Park now has not one, but two stunning restaurants. Unfortunately, now North Park diners are left with a hard choice: which of these restaurants is better?
It's the Diamond Crusted Pimp Cup of Chicken
Dining at Urban Solace, with its New American take on classics like tomato soup with grilled cheese, macaroni and cheese, meatloaf, and chicken and dumplings, is a bit like answering the question of “What feels better than a glass of warm milk at night?” with a response of “A glass of warm milk served in Lil’ John’s diamond-studded pimp chalice.” At first, you may think it’s a bit cheeky and bizarre. But then you think about it, and you realize something: you want the pimp cup.
The food is nothing short of spectacular, combining familiar flavors with a touch of sophistication. The Jidori chicken, considered by many to be the hallmark dish of the restaurant, is the best you can get without roasting the bird yourself – perfectly cooked where lesser establishments would turn the chicken into sawdust. And the tomato-fennel soup with crème fraiche and a grilled four-cheese sandwich hits a wonderfully nostalgic note. There’s enough goodness in the soup alone to make you think that mom made it for you – and that mom got a bit fancy in the preparation. I’ve eaten at Urban Solace several times, and the only time I wasn’t blown away was when I ordered a crab “pop-tart,” which is thankfully no longer featured on the menu.
Urban Solace's Grilled Cheese is arguably better than lovemaking on a bearskin rug.
But if you want a good dish, try the duckaroni. I already am a macaroni and cheese slut, and by that I mean I would do mildly depraved things at the whims of others simply for a plate of mac and cheese. But when you add duck into the mixture, I turn white and have to steady myself on the nearest chair. It’s almost too much, and like with anything of that vice-like nature, almost too much is just enough.
The dining room is nice looking as well, in a distinct departure from our usual habit of recommending places that are delicious, but involve a certain risk of being shot. No need for a Kevlar vest here, although a dress shirt would make for wonderful camo.
The Linkery, by comparison, does not seem like your mom got a bit more sophistication; it seems like your mom took a job in a meat packing plant. I realize that “meat packing” and “your mom,” in the same sentence will elicit giggles from the immature members of the audience, but the Linkery specializes in house-made sausage, and such jokes really are unavoidable when you’re talking about a restaurant with such specialties. Now that the sausage caveat is out of the way, let’s talk food.
Located within half a block of Urban Solace, the Linkery combines good beer with really, really tasty meats, all with a focus on providing solid, fresh, local ingredients. It’s not as pretty as Urban Solace, but it does have a singular focus on the ingredients. That is never, ever, ever a bad thing.
Ever wanted a place where you could be as blatantly carnivorous as you want without feeling guilty afterwards? You’ve found a home. The meat is unquestionably the star here. Of course it helps when you’re adjacent to a sister company that happens to be an artisinal cured meat vendor. Just like everything else, it’s local, it’s organic. It’s even good for the environment. Take that, you lentil-munching vegetarians! The Hot Italian sausage and Cincinnati sausage are fresh, well balanced, and manage to avoid the near-ubiquitous over-salting that you get even with name-brand tubular meats. And the house-made licorice mustard is enough to get in a bare-knuckles brawl over as well (mind you, I hate mustard, and I would consider punching a baby for this food). It also helps that the Angus beef and Hampshire and Blue Butt pork come from San Luis Obispo county, home of the best ingredients in the world, and worth going slightly less-than-local for.
Some would call this "cruel," or "barbaric." For me, the word "crunchy" comes to mind, thanks to the Linkery.
The burger is also a standout, combining the very best meat with grilled onions, bacon, pineapple, and a fried egg. This is the kind of meal that hardened men in prison weep while daydreaming about when the slop is dumped on their table in the cafeteria.
Speaking of the wants of incarcerated men, the beer selection is also stellar, and features local breweries like Stone and Alesmith. Once again, the mantra of good and local foods comes into play.
It’s not easy trying to establish a farmhouse, homestyle feel in the middle of urban rush and hustle. The constant noise, smog, and the oppressive rush of the city constantly fight the feeling of simplicity and comfort. But those same obstacles are the reasons why places like Urban Solace and The Linkery exist, and why these restaurants should be treasured.
And thus we arrive at the paralyzing question: which should you choose? Well, you can’t really go wrong, can you? More than anything else, it will depend on what you value and what you’re looking for. But for my money, well, let’s just say that Urban Solace is the only one of the two that’s on my speed dial.
